Chika Kisada
originally published in her. magazine volume 05
Photography_ Yuichi Akagi
Styling_ Masataka Hattori
Hair_ KOTARO ( SENSE OF HUMOUR )
Makeup_ Nobuko Maekawa ( Perle )
Model_ Liis Kristiin, Christina Christiansen
Design_ Yukio Sugaya
chikakisada .com
a conversation with Chika Kisada
Portrait_ Yuichi Akagi
Writer_ Mari Kishi
What is your favourite colour, one that you couldn’t live without?
My favourite colour is pink. But, I wear mostly black clothes. 80% of my closet is black. I wear pink for special occasions.
Are pink and black important colours to your collections?
Yes. Pink is an important colour in my collections. If I’m making a special piece, I always use pink. There are different shades of pink for each season, like shocking pink and coral pink. The different pinks create a unique atmosphere. Our brand’s theme is the strength of women, so black is key for expressing strength. Black and pink – I think that combination expresses elegance.
What is the brand concept?
Strong elegance. I wanted my career as a ballerina to be a part of the brand. I combined the opposing images of ballet and punk.
I danced ballet from 3 to 19 years old. When I did ballet, I only listened to classical music. I was a ballet nerd. After I quit ballet, I felt freer and listened to other music like punk, rock, techno, house and dance. I listened to a lot of different genres. Because I only listened to classical for so long, I was shocked and amazed by the different atmospheres and sounds. When I listen to punk, I feel a rumbling that rises deep inside me. I think that is the punk spirit.
Was it difficult to mix those two very different worlds?
Combining the style of classical dancing and rebellious punk seems very difficult. But I enjoy bringing those two elements together to create a design.
What is your process when creating a collection? Do you decide a theme?
It really depends on the season. Right now I’m trying to create collections that have a story. So, first I come up with a story and then make designs to fit the storyline.
Do you produce everything in Japan?
90% is made in Japan, but I make some items overseas. I’m trying to increase the products I make from fabric. Some items are made overseas because the technology and skill can’t be found in Japan, for example very detailed embroidery. The point is not for everything to be ‘Made in Japan,’ but to choose production sites based on countries where specific skills can be found. It’s definitely not my intention to outsource production overseas because of lower labour costs.
What is the concept for the Autumn/Winter collection?
Memories of photographs. I was inspired when I walked past the display window of a photo shop. There, in the window, was a photo of a young girl dressed up in her rites of passage kimono. I thought about the little girl growing up and becoming a woman. I look at how femininity develops. I thought of what that girl would fantasise about wearing as a lady. I also thought of a woman looking back on what she wore as a young girl, remembering the details of her favourite clothes. The collection shows how the future and past cross paths in memories.
As we grow older, memories are forgotten, but it seems like you are weaving those precious memories into clothes. How do your experiences with ballet influence the way you make clothes today?
I still dance ballet as a hobby once or twice a week. During lessons I observe muscle and body movements. I think about how clothes can look good on the body. On my days off, I like to go to the theatre, too. I find inspiration there and it influences my designs.
In terms of people, who has influenced you the most?
I have gotten a lot of influence from people in ballet and theatre. Artists influence me more than designers. Some such artists are Christian Boltanski and Rebecca Horn. I like artists who have depth and darkness in their work. But, it’s not fun when the piece gets too intelligent so I like to loosen the screws a bit when I create my own work.
You mix masculinity and femininity in a very discrete way...
If I focus too much on my ballet influences, it is too feminine. It is important for me when I make clothes to distance the design from femininity. I try and find ways to break my own understanding of ballet and punk philosophies. I always challenge myself to find a good balance when I design clothes.
You had your first show recently, how did that go?
My first show was in March. It was similar to how I felt at my ballet performances. It felt good to be back on the stage.
Were you able to feel the reaction of your audience?
On stage one has the responsibility to perform live. Backstage there’s a lot of nerves, and it’s a very different energy. It raises a lot of feelings. I felt a steady stream of strange adrenaline. It was very exciting for me.
Would you like to do a show overseas?
Yes, I’d like to do my next show abroad. When I danced ballet, my goal was to be accepted in a ballet school in England. I couldn’t achieve that goal so I would like to give the fashion world a shot overseas.
You also have another brand, REKISAMI. Is Chika Kisada an outlet for completely different cloths from REKISAMI?
I design clothes that fit a certain audience for REKISAMI. The clothes are more contemporary and for daily wear. But, I wanted to make something more mode, more fashion – clothes that you wear in the future. When I tried to design the new products, it was too edgy and dressy for REKISAMI’s image. As a result I felt very stuck, so I created a new brand where I could design clothes for the future. That’s the basic difference. Also, Chika Kisada is my own name. I feel like I can show what’s going on in my head with this brand.
Are there any items that you make every season for Chika Kisada?
The biker jacket, tulle dress and a dress made from shirt fabric. I make the biker jacket every season.
Do you collaborate with other brands?
For the runway, I collaborated with KIDS LOVE GAITE. They designed the shoes. It was my first collaboration. I learned so much from the experience. I’d be interested in other collaborations.
What kind of clothes are you planning to design in the future?
I’d like to make clothes that are memorable and have an element of surprise.