Maiko Akimoto - PHEENY
originally published in her. magazine volume 04
a conversation with Maiko Akimoto
Writer_ Mari Kishi
Do you decide upon a theme ahead of each season?
There is a theme every season, but the designs come first. I create a design board of all my ideas, then I come up with the theme.
So the theme comes later?
Yes. When I go looking for materials I imagine what I’d like to design and create for the collection. Once I have a general idea, the theme grows from there.
How do you select your fabrics?
Japan has a wide variety of fabric and some great places to find material – especially Bishu in Nagoya and the Niigata area. I usually go there with friends from other brands to check out new stuff. We select the fabric we like, line them up in an atelier and brainstorm what styles would match the fabrics.
I also like used clothing. Sometimes I take some old sweats and dresses, or things that I used to wear and really like, and make material from it all.
Do you enjoy looking for vintage clothing in places like Machida and Koenji?
I actually went to Machida recently. I have a lot of friends who like vintage clothes, so we drive to these places together, check out a few shops then have a soak in a nearby public bath. We make a day out of it. Also, some of my friends run vintage stores in Hatagaya and Shimokitazawa so I often visit them after work. I like Koenji, too.
You launched PHEENY soon after leaving N.HOOLYWOOD, where you worked as a patternmaker. How did your experiences there help you get to where you are now?
There was a three month blank between leaving N.HOOLYWOOD and starting PHEENY. I worked there as a patternmaker for about five years, from the age of 20 to 25. When I was there they only had a men’s line. I liked how it was was designed and constructed, and I enjoyed wearing oversized styles and men’s clothing, which was one of the reasons I started working there.
At N.HOOLYWOOD, my colleagues all liked vintage clothing and that made me like it even more. I learned the basics of garment construction there, too. Their patternmakers are very professional. My two mentors were so good, and no matter how much I tried I could never reach their level. Eventually, after working as a patternmaker for five years, I wanted some time to reflect and take a break. At that time I hadn’t actually thought about starting a brand.
How did you manage launch your brand in just three months?
I think it was down to good luck [laughing]. The key factor is that I had so many people helping me along the way.
At the beginning of that three month break I took some time to travel and relax, and then one day I thought, ‘I need to get back to work.’ I asked myself what can I do and what do I like doing. The answer was that I love clothes. I had learned the basics of garment construction and I could make patterns. I thought it would be neat for a menswear patternmaker to design and construct womenswear.
Back then, after chatting with friends, I realised that a lot of them didn’t have any clear goals and seemed to be frustrated. However, I had something that I really wanted to do, so I just decided to give it a shot. I began telling people that I was thinking of starting something, and my former colleagues introduced me to a factory and explained the process of launching a brand. Also, a friend from school was working in the textile industry, so he helped me in many ways. A lot of people pushed me forward, and before I knew it, the brand was launched. PHEENY is the result of all the support I received from friends and colleagues.
How did you come up with the name?
It’s a combination of the words ‘Philosophy’ and ‘Funny.’ I like how it sounds. I wanted something recognisable that everyone could pronounce. I had a few other ideas but finally decided on PHEENY.
What was the first piece you created?
The very first pieces were tops and denim. I made a collection with the two things that I love. I only had about ten styles and I only included my favourite elements in the design and construction of them. Then I slowly started to add more items, like striped tops. Back then I liked jumper skirts, so I tried designing those too. I also made a jacket from some of the fabric I used for the tops.
How was your first showing?
I wasn’t sure how to do it, so I got advice from a former colleague in sales. That colleague let me use their press room for my first showing. At the showing I was able to partner with ADAM ET ROPE’ from the JUN group. A designer friend of mine really liked the entire look of my brand and introduced me to a buyer at Ron Herman, and that led to a partnership with them.
Who is your main retailer right now?
Beauty and Youth. They have many stores and handle a variety of my products. Also Isetan.
Have you thought about entering the overseas market?
Not at the moment. Once I gather the right team and feel prepared, then I might give it a shot. I also want to open a physical store whenever I feel ready.
Are you interested in doing a show?
No, not at all. I’m way more interested in opening a shop.
Where is your ideal location for a PHEENY store?
Yoyogi-Uehara would be great. I like the relaxed atmosphere and vibe there. Also my office and a lot of the shops I like, like JOHN, are in Yoyogi-Uehara.
What do you do to relax?
I love going to concerts. I go at least once or twice a month. I also go to Fuji Rock Festival every year. I enjoy travelling, too. I recently went to Shikoku, which was very nice. There are so many beautiful places there, and the udon noodles are delicious.
What is the theme of your Spring/Summer collection?
‘Voyage.’ I think spring and summer are seasons for travelling and going to the beach. I want to make comfortable products that people would want to wear or take when travelling.
Finally, please tell us how you’d like to see PHEENY develop.
Ever since launching the brand, I’ve created the clothes I like and want to wear. It’s been five years now and the brand is reaching more and more people. I’ve noticed that most people who wear PHEENY are the same generation as me. Now, many of my friends are getting married, having kids, and reaching a turning point in their lives. I see photos posted on social media of people wearing PHEENY and signing marriage registration papers. That makes me so happy because I feel like I’m a part of their very special day. The brand is based on a casual style, but it’s great that people can wear it for special occasions too.
As a brand, I’d like PHEENY to be able to play a bigger role in the lives of our customers. Other than that, I don’t have any big personal ambitions. All I want is to be happy, and for everyone around me and their loved ones to be happy. I want to continue creating, having fun and being true to myself.
Photography_ Kenta Sawada
Styling_ Masataka Hattori
Hair&Makeup_ Yoshikazu Miyamoto
Model_ Selma Hadziosmanovic
Design_ Yukio Sugaya
pheeny.com