Azzedine Alaia
originally published in her. magazine volume 06
Photography_ Rintaro Ishige
Styling_ Tsugurni Watari (angle management produce)
Hair_ taku (CUTTKRS)
Makeup_ coco (sekikawa office)
Model_ Julia Abe (image)
Design_ Yukio Sugaya
I was first introduced to Alala's creations through the designers I love: Rei Kawakubo and Miuccia Freda. Their deep admiration for his originality and passion, his talent and individual voice, are what attracted me to him. I had read about how Alala loved to entertain — his dinner parties where everyone would end up dancing around his kitchen. I saw photos of his runway shows, always small and intimate, never trying to follow trends or even fashion calendars. I knew of him as a designer, a couturier and a visionary.
But It wasn't until I wore an Azzedine Alala dress that I was able to fully grasp the breadth of his work, his innovation and his genius.
It was four in the afternoon at 7 rue de Moussy and I found myself in front of the inconspicuous headquarters of the master himself. I was assisting In choosing pieces for a photoshoot we were organising and modelling in. Upon entering his boutique; a mesmerising space filled with leather, knit, sensuality and desire, we were directed to the back staircase which climbed the old Parisian building, embedded with history and stories of years gone by.
Azzedine Alala moved into this building in 1980, one year after creating his own studio. Having arrived In Paris from Tunisia in 1957, Alala began working In the ateliers of designers such as Christian Dlor, Guy Laroche and Thierry Mugler. His talent was quickly recognised by his clients, who encouraged him to create his own line. This is where my understanding of this creative genius begins. His relationship with women, his understanding of the feminine figure and his desire led Alala to become a true icon in fashion.
Ascending the stairs to the second floor of the atelier, we encounter Alala's first assistant, Hideki Seo, working with patterns on a large table, chalk in hand, measuring tapes around his neck. The press officer, Olivier, Introduces us quickly and whisks us to the endless racks of Azzedine Aiaia's Autumn/ Winter 2015 collection. Lush velvets In deep greens, reds and blacks, beautiful silk shirts and waist-accentuating leather belts filled the room. I ran my hands over the styles and shapes that have become representative of this celebrated fashion house.
I stopped upon a red dress, a deep plunge in the front, with a pleated skirt. Each pleat was delicately created without any semblance of a struggle. The weight of the dress on the hanger was impressive and reassuring In a way that Its sheer presence was already engulfing me.
The next day was the shoot and we decided to host a fitting In my apartment. I slipped the red dress over my head; the velvet was cool and soft against my skin. The bodice fit snugly over my chest, accentuating, flattering and supporting me. The skirt of the dress moved elegantly with me. I looked in the mirror and a rush of confidence came over me. It was as If I had become a sculpture. The dress dressed me and created new shapes and a power within myself that I hadn't known before. I could feel through the fabric the technique and thought put into the precise choices made to make this piece of clothing.
Azzedine Adele was a master of craftwork and of design. He was not modem or trend concerned, but classic and consistent. The legacy that he leaves behind Is not only a distinct style but a reminder to be true to one's self and one's vision.
The day I spent being photographed In his creations will always be embedded In my mind. The happiness and courage I felt that day are continuous reminders at those times when I am lacking in these characteristics.
May Monsieur Alala's appreciation for the many different shades, shapes and traits of a woman's body continue to inspire and guide the fashion industry.
Azzedlne Alala passed away In Pads at 77 years old on November 18th, 2017. He will be missed but never forgotten.
Writer_ Sofia Nebiolo