Yoko Shimoyama of Yarn
originally published in her. magazine volume 10
Photography _ James Oliver
Styling _ Mari Kishi
Hair & Makeup _ Niki Adlington
Models _ Derya & Luc
Design_ Yukio Sugaya
Special Thanks _ Angela Bevan
A Conversation with Yoko Shimoyama
Writer _ Mari Kishi
Tell us how you started YARN; why did you launch a brand focused on merino wool?
When I moved to New Zealand, it was the first time that I had actually seen merino wool. I'd always known about it, but it’s not as commonly used in Japan as in New Zealand; here, it is used in underwear for babies and adults. I learned that merino wool from New Zealand was high quality and did not put stress on the skin. I’d always thought that wool was used in clothing to warm the body, particularly in the winter, and people tend to think it’s an itchy material. In New Zealand, I was surprised to see wool being used as a material that came in direct contact with the body. As a valuable material of New Zealand, I wanted to make innerwear that would bring out the best in merino wool, so I started YARN with the hope of it becoming a unique brand with a design that is simple, yet sophisticated.
When I wear a wool sweater, it often gets itchy and I cannot wear it; merino wool is used for underwear, so it should be different from other common wool, right?
Merino wool is a type of hair. There are many breeds of sheep, and merino wool can be obtained from the Merino breed. It is the finest wool of its kind and is very soft and gentle on the skin; it is wool but very silky. The prickly characteristic of a wool sweater is related to the fineness of the hair. It’s a unit called micron, but the fineness of the hair used when making YARN underwear etc. is 18.9 microns or less. Human hair is about 50 microns thick, so you can see that I use very fine hair. If the hair has thickness or hardness, it will tingle when it touches the skin; it's not tingling because it's wool. Therefore, the quality of the hair itself is very important for making a YARN collection.
What are the special characteristics of the wool used in YARN items?
The Merino used in YARN is called ZQ Merino and the sheep are bred using a special method. For example, the environment in which the sheep are raised has been thoroughly enforced. The sheep's physical condition is managed on a daily basis, making sure it has enough space and it is raised in a stress-free environment. There is evidence that sheep which are kept in a small place to increase productivity are subject to stress and tend to have hair that is brittle. If sheep, like humans, are under stress for a certain period of time, it can have physical effects. Wearing merino wool can be cool in the summer, and warm in the winter because the environment in which sheep are raised in is exactly that. The sheep's wool grows in accordance with the environment. One of the characteristics of merino wool is the crimping of fine fibres like springs. The point of heat retention is how much air can be kept in the fibre. This crimp in Merino wool is rich in air and it has a very high water-absorption rate. This absorbed water is released automatically due to the difference in humidity from the outside air and that is why the clothes are always dry and comfortable, without stuffiness, even when you sweat.
Speaking of merino wool, outdoor brands come to mind when we think about functionality...
I agree. Wool is a classic underwear for outdoor use. It uses the properties of wool, which absorbs and emits moisture instantly when you sweat during mountain climbing. It has a high antibacterial effect and is naturally odour resistant. It doesn't smell, even if you keep wearing it for a few days. Moreover, there is also a UV cut function. Many outdoor brands use merino wool to make products, but as a concept of YARN, we want wool to be incorporated outside of underwear. I hope merino wool can be part of everyone’s daily use through YARN. Each product’s functionality, as well as design, are well thought out and I want to make a collection that can be worn in the city.
What other concepts do YARN value?
Nowadays, everything is accessible, and many things are considered disposable. Clothing is worn for one season and is sometimes thrown away. Therefore, I think YARN’s main approach and concept is to make environmentally conscious products, and I think it will become even more important in the future. We promote the use of materials that do not become garbage and are able to return to the earth; hair returns to the earth. I want to pursue manufacturing that does not damage our planet.
And why does YARN promote merino wool, which is a natural material?
Innerwear like HEATTECH and fleece that are now commonly used are made from polyester, which is plastic. When the polyester material is washed, it melts and flows into the sea as microplastic and now, the world is having microplastic problems. It’s not just about comfort but thinking about how what we wear now is connected to the Earth’s future. Sustainability: We aim to be a brand that considers not only the present, but also the future.
You mentioned "ZQ Merino Wool" earlier, but please tell us more about what it is.
ZQ's efforts focus on traceability, which introduces the faces of the manufacturers and how they produce their wool. Sheep, raised by farmers based on the highest standards of animal and environmental protection, are grazed on magnificent lands, eat native wildflowers, and remain well-fed all year round. Merino fibres produced from such a unique environment like NZ are so durable, they will not break, yet they are very fine and soft. You can trace the merino wool that YARN NZ treats and know which New Zealand farm it is from. This is manufacturing in which you can see the producer. There is a company called New Zealand Merino Company, which certifies ZQ Merino. There are many strict checkpoints, and if you don’t clear them, you will not be certified. Manufacturing must not be harmful to the environment, and prices must be paid equally. I think that it is a necessary system and YARN's manufacturing philosophy is to preserve our natural resources for the next generation.
With the target market being Japan, will YARN continue to be based in New Zealand?
I think so. I was fascinated by New Zealand and when I moved here, I was inspired by the way of thinking and the lifestyle and I learned all about merino wool. I’m not trying to force someone to live a certain way, or to live an eco-friendly life, I just want it to be received as an idea, not a proposal. Values and lifestyles vary from one another, so I want to convey that idea to Japan through YARN. Instead of living in Japan and importing and selling New Zealand goods, I want to live and communicate these ideas from New Zealand.
Please tell us the origin of the brand name YARN.
Simple, it’s easy to understand and easy to communicate. It is YARN in the sense of yarn. It also has the meaning of tying thread or tying people together, or of spinning to create new things.
Are you planning to increase the number of products in the future?
First of all, it is a brand that started as a women’s line, so I want to solidify the women’s collection first. There are so many hard-working women, so I want them to wear YARN and feel relaxed. The shorts are designed to fit tightly, so it’s warm just by wearing them, without them feeling too tight.
I want to make more products for men also. I'm also interested in kids and baby items, so I hope to become a family-friendly brand in the future. This also goes for colour; I want to increase colour variations. Making clothes for YARN is simple, but it requires a lot of commitment. Not only in design, but also in the pre-stages.
Where are the designs and sewing made, Japan or New Zealand?
The design and sewing are from Japan, and the wool is from New Zealand. I have Reiko Watanabe of Atelier rei as a designer for YARN. Rei is an artist who makes made-to-order clothing, remake clothes, and also makes rugs using leftovers. Rei's philosophy of manufacturing clothes fits very well with the concept of YARN as she is the type of person who thinks very much about the brand and is a true artisan. The brand label is attached afterwards so that it can be removed, and the care label can also be removed easily. Because it touches the skin, we make it as un-irritating as possible. To keep everything simple, she gets rid of all unnecessary parts in her designs.
What do you think of YARN's future development?
It's very difficult and it takes time to convey the good things. For example, people know that cashmere is expensive, but I don't think anyone knows that merino wool is also a high-quality material that is very expensive. It takes a lot of time and effort to turn it into a sellable product. Merino wool is actually made in many countries, but the natural environment of the southern island of New Zealand, which has the proper temperature difference between hot and cool and low humidity, is the best. That's why it's the best quality merino wool. I was lucky that by living in New Zealand, I was able to find such a valuable material, so I would like to take time and share it through YARN. Being wrapped in merino wool brings happiness!